Freud 99-268 Entry and Interior Door Ogee Style Router Bit System, 1-3/4-and-1-3/8-Inch Doors, 1/2-Inch Shank with TiCo Hi-Density Carbide, 2-Piece Product Description:
- Features Freud's TiCo Hi-Density Carbide with Titanium for long life and a flawless finish
- Milling a tenon of any length is easy. The top cutter and bearing of the rail bit is simply unscrewed from the lower bit and shank. You don't have to remove the cutter from the router or change the height of the cutter.
- Cuts all composition material, plywood, hardwoods, and softwoods.
- Use on table-mounted routers
- Perma-shield coating to resist heat
Product Description
Includes 2 Piece Ogee Entry and Interior Door Router Bit Set - 99-268
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
Glassy smooth cuts, incomplete instructions
By Gary Cavener
I bought these to make a bathroom door of CVG Douglas Fir. My only complaint is that the instructions don't make it clear where the shims go when you change the bits from exterior door (1 3/4")mode to interior door (1 3/8") mode. Building a door is quite a project and this bit set handles the task very well. Freud gives you a large flow chart and a DVD video of a couple of good ol' boys building a door, which except for the shim problem really helps to understand the process.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Freud door bits
By Lewis S. Becker
I purchased this bit to make four raised panel closet doors out of 1 3/8 poplar. These Freud bits worked perfectly producing clean accurate cuts. I am pleased with the product and fully recommend them.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Yes, shims can be an issue.
By The Engineer
As stated by a previous reviewer, the shims can be an issue. They stick to the parts when disassembled, due to the lubricant. They may go unnoticed until too late. I had to shuffle them around to get the tongue the correct thickness for the grooves; however, once done for a given door thickness you leave them alone.Also realized that if you are making long tongues, you can just cut cope the rails with the lower half of the bit right from the start, since you end up flipping the rail over time and again. Don't even need the top half.
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